What is Mexican?

I write a lot about Mexican food here but what makes a dish truly "Mexican"? Are there a set criteria? Well, it is a tricky, gray area for sure. Here is the opinion of a student from Chihuahua, Mexico, Priscilla:

Tamales!

Throughout my research, I interviewed several people from the Mexican community in Fredericton about Mexico and the memories that they have of their home that are associated with food. Here is a clip of my interview with Adriana who is from Mexico City.

Dia de los Muertos

"...chases after it, mocks it, courts it, hugs it, sleeps with it; it is his favorite plaything and his most lasting love." - Octavio Paz on Mexicans and death

The Day of the Dead is a peculiar holiday in Mexico that takes place on November 2nd also known as All Souls Day. November 1st is All Saints Day and is reserved for remembrance of children and the 2nd is reserved for those who died as adults.

The Day of the Dead is a holiday that is deeply associated with food. To honour the memories of those passed on, people build large, colourful altars that house many of the foods that the dead person liked. Altars often include crepe-paper cut-outs (papel picado), wreaths and crosses decorated with silk flowers, skeleton motifs or candy skulls with the deceased's name on them (above), candles and flowers. Amongst the food that the person enjoyed in his/her past life is a special bread called "pan de muerto" (pictured on top) that completes the altar.



The idea is that the dead come back and enjoy these feasts with their living loved ones, a concept that seems extremely strange to those in a country where people fear death. In Mexico, death is often joked about. Here are some testimonials about Dia de los Muertos from some Mexican people in Fredericton:

Frijoles Refritos

Frijoles (Pintos) Refritos or as we better know them, Refried Beans are a fairly common part of the Mexican diet. Refried Beans is actually a misnomer, refritos actually means well-fried and not twice-fried.

Beans are a huge part of the Mexican diet and date back to precolonial days where the natives ate beans with corn tortillas as a huge staple in their diets. beans are rich in iron and protein and acted as a meat substitute for people in areas where suitable meat was unavailable. Everyone has a different method for cooking their beans and I spent a lot of time perfecting the way I cook my beans. Here is my recipe:

What you'll need:


Step 1: Sort through 2 cups of dried pinto beans to eliminate bad beans, you can buy bags of them at Wal-mart or you can buy them at grocery or bulk stores. Rinse the beans in cold water with a strainer and set in a bowl with about an inch of water covering the beans. Leave overnight or for a few hours.

Step 2: Rinse beans again. Now put beans in a large pot with 8 cups of water, bring water to a boil.

Step 3: Reduce heat to medium. Now add your onion, how much you add is up to you but I added one half of the onion pictured above, peeled and cut into large chunks. Let these simmer for another 40 minutes or so. I also added a large, dried Pasilla chile (can be bought at the Scoop-and-Save) for an extra bit of spicy flavor, can be substituted with fresh chiles, and as many as you wish depending on personal tastes.

Step 4: Next I like to add 1/4 or 1/2 a teaspoon of dried oregano, you can also add a tsp. of salt now but I usually wait until the beans are cooked thoroughly because adding salt too early can make beans tough. Cover and cook for about an hour and a half or until beans are quite soft.
Optional: Some people often times, fry the beans in lard or with bacon drippings to add flavor. A vegetarian option would be to fry with olive or canola oil. I don't like cooking with lard or bacon but I wanted to enjoy some added flavor so I added a cup and a half of organic chicken broth to the water. This can easily be substituted for beef broth or bouillon.

Step 5: In a large skillet, heat a tablespoon of lard, bacon drippings, butter, canola oil, or whatever you wish on medium-high heat, I chose canola oil. When the oil is hot, slowly add the beans and some of the leftover juice from the pot and begin mashing the beans with a potato masher, fork or even the flat side of a wooden spoon. The beans should have a smooth consistency with a few scattered whole beans, not too soupy.

This is my favourite way of making refried beans but there are many other ways. Be creative!

El Dia De Reyes

All this talk of hot chocolate has reminded me of some of the conversations I've had in my interviews with members of the Mexican community in Fredericton. When asked about their favourite memories that they associate with food from their respective homes, several people brought up their love of la Rosca or Rosca de Reyes and a warm cup of hot chocolate on El Dia De Reyes.

"Well, what is it?", you ask. Good Question. El Dia De Reyes or Día de los Tres Reyes Magos is loosely translated as Three Kings Day, the Epiphany, remembering the day when the Three Wise Men followed the star to Bethlehem and arrived bearing gifts of gold, frankincense and myrrh for the Baby Jesus. The actual feast takes place on January 6th but a few days before, A couple of days earlier, children write their letters to the Wise Men, or to their favorite Rey Mago: Melchor, Gaspar, or Baltasar, asking for the presents they would like to receive and the evening before (January 5th) the Three Wisemen/Kings/Magi are placed in the nativity scene. Another fun tradition involves a visit to Alameda, a park in Mexico City on the evenings before Jan. 6th. Hundreds of helium balloons are available for sale so children can attach their letters and send them by balloon to the Reyes Magos (Royal Magi).

On January 6th, a feast is prepared called Merienda de Reyes and for this feast, Rosca de Reyes is prepared. Rosca de Reyes, pictured above, is an oval shaped, sweet bread which is adorned with candied fruit. The tradition of serving la Rosca was introduced by the Spaniards and is sometimes served with corn tamales to represent pre-colonial food. Hot chocolate is traditionally served with la Rosca as well. The tradition goes as follows: a small plastic figurine of a baby (Jesus) is hidden inside the bread (this represents the need to find a secure place for the birth, to protect Jesus from King Herod) and each person cuts one piece of Rosca (the knife represents the danger Baby Jesus was in) and if your piece contains the hidden doll, you have to prepare tamales for Candelaria or Candle Mass Day on February 2nd for all the guests at the feast and in some traditions, buy a new Ropón or dress for the Baby Jesus of the nativity scene.

I have never prepared Rosca myself but you can find a great recipe for this in the book Like Water for Chocolate or here.

For less analytical view of the holiday, listen to my friend Adriana tell you why El Dia De Reyes is one of the things she misses most about her home:



Here is a clip from UNB Professor Maria Teresa Grant about celebrating Dia de Reyes:

Chocolate Caliente

Since my last entry focused on the book Like Water for Chocolate, I've decided to write about the inspiration for the title of the book: hot chocolate. Hot chocolate in Canada in very different than that of Mexico; for most Canadians, hot chocolate comes in a powdered mix that you make with hot water or for some, milk. In Mexico, hot chocolate or chocolate caliente is a creamy drink that is very popular. It is made with whole milk and real chocolate, preferably dark, Mexican chocolate. In the photo above, I have featured three different types of chocolate, all of which I have found to make for a very nice cup of hot chocolate.

The first brand is the Nestle Abuelita Brand which is actually a very popular brand in Mexico and is made in Mexico. Fun Fact: "Abuelita" is the Spanish word for "grandma/granny". The recipe for hot chocolate appears on the label as this chocolate is produced for the sole purpose of making hot chocolate. For all of you Fredericton people, Abuelita Hot Chocolate is available at the Scoop-and-Save!

The other two bars are Lindt brand which has several different kinds of dark chocolate available. My two favourites are the 90% Cacao and the Chili Piment Rouge. The latter has an especially nice taste as the chile gives the hot chocolate spicy hint.

Everyone has their own way of making hot chocolate and typically all you really need is your favourite chocolate and some milk, preferably whole milk to achieve the authentic creamy texture BUT if you don't want the added fat, you can still use skim milk if you wish. I make my Mexican hot chocolate with: whole milk, 1 tablet of Abuelita chocolate and sometimes 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract and/or a pinch of cinnamon. If you can't find Abuelita brand and are using just regular chocolate, sometimes some chile powder gives the drink a nice taste like in this Rachel Ray recipe.

To prepare: In a medium saucepan, heat ingredients over high heat. Stir constantly with a whisk until mixture is frothy and starting to boil. You have the option of adding sugar, cinnamon or whatever you wish and then serve immediately. This should make at least four mugs of hot chocolate.

Como Agua Para Chocolate

WOW! What a great novel! I really enjoyed this book by Mexican magical realism author Laura Esquivel. The title "Like Water for Chocolate" or in Spanish "Como Agua Para Chocolate" refers to an expression used in Mexico to describe intense desire, heat and passion. Here in Canada we are used to instant hot chocolate mixes where all we do is add hot water to the powdered mix. In Mexico making hot chocolate with water is very rare as people make hot chocolate by melting chocolate pieces into whole milk. If water is used instead of milk, the temperature needs to be at the boiling point for the chocolate to melt completely so to say that a person is "like water for chocolate" would mean that they are one hot babe or feeling intense sexual desire.

The book centers around a girl named Tita who is cursed by a family tradition that states that since she is the youngest girl in the family, she must never marry so that she must care for her mother until her mother dies. Tita falls in love with Pedro but her mother does not allow them to marry so in an effort to stay close to Tita, Pedro marries her sister Rosaura. Drama! Tita is also a brilliant cook and her only way of communicating her desire and emotions for Pedro is through the meals that she makes. The book is filled with recipes and home remedies that are definitely worth a try if you can gather the ingredients.

Both the Spanish and English versions of this novel are available for preview and order through Amazon here and here. I bought my copy at Chapters in Fredericton and I'm pretty sure that you could also find a copy at the Owl's Nest downtown.



There is a great film adaptation of Like Water for Chocolate available, you can probably rent it at Blockbuster. Here's a clip:

Corn Tortillas - The Macgyver Method

So in this entry I present to those of you who want to make corn tortillas without a tortilla press ("tortilladora") my "Macgyver Method". I eventually came across a tortilladora at the Scoop-and-Save in Fredericton. They come in two sizes and cost between 15-35 dollars and they are made of metal. Still, a tortilladora is not necessary to make good corn tortillas so if you want to save your cash or can't find one, this method is for you. Here is what you'll need:



* Note: I used plastic wrap but waxed paper works well too.
Step 1: Mix the Maseca with water to form dough. The amount you use is up to you but on the back of the package it gives you the directions as to how to use for a serving of 16-18 tortillas, 2 cups of Maseca with 1.5 cups of water. The recipe also calls for a quarter teaspoon of salt. Mix and knead the dough until it is moist, if it is too dry you can add a little bit more water. After I do this, I separate the dough into 16 equal balls of dough and cover them so they do not dry out. Maseca can be purchased at both Wal-mart and the Scoop-and-Save.

Step 2: I wrapped my cutting board with plastic wrap and then take another sheet of plastic wrap and set it aside. I take my first ball of dough and place it on top of the plastic wrap in the center.



Then I cover the ball with like other piece of plastic wrap like this:



Step 3: Now take your rolling pin and flatten the ball of dough into a thin disc. This can be quite difficult as it can be hard to keep the thickness and shape of the tortilla even so often times they fall apart. This takes a lot of practice.



This can be tricky so often times I would opt to use a plate or anything flat and heavy to act as a makeshift press. Place the plate on top of the ball and with your hand in the center, press down to flatten the ball evenly.



Step 4: Cooking the tortillas takes the least amount of time and is super easy. I used a regular non-stick frying pan but any frying pan or griddle should work fine. They only take a about a minute to cook on each side using medium heat and should look lightly toasted. Be careful peeling your dough tortillas off of the plastic wrap though because they are quite delicate. I sometimes use a spatula to help me pry the tortilla from the plastic.



Enjoy!

Corn Tortillas - Parte Dos

My last entry concerned the history and ancient procedures for making corn tortillas. Now what you must be thinking is, "Wow, gee, that's fantastic but I don't have time to spend my entire day grinding corn into masa or mas harina (corn flour). Is there a less time consuming method? Where do I buy these supplies? ETC." Well, I asked myself those same questions and there are several options to consider.

Option A: You can now buy corn tortillas in local grocery stores as well as Mexican grocers, if you are lucky enough to live in a town with one. Since I live in Fredericton, I will let all you Fredericton people in on where to purchase corn tortillas: Sobeys, The Atlantic Superstore (Dominion and Loblaws to those in Newfoundland and Ontario) and most likely at the Scoop-and-Save on Prospect Street. Easy, right? Well the downside is that, in my humble opinion, these premade tortillas are never quite as good as fresh, homemade ones and they expire and dry out very quickly. They are also more costly than your typical flour tortillas.

Option B: Making your own Corn Tortillas! This is not the daunting task that it seems and there are several methods. The most common way is to use pre-ground, lime fortified corn flour (masa harina) which is then mixed with water to created dough. Regular corn flour, NOT corn meal, can be found at the Atlantic Superstore and many other whole foods stores. Now, for a more authentic tortilla, you can purchase a popular Mexican brand of masa harina called "Maseca" at the Scoop-and-Save and now at Wal-mart.



Super easy, right? Well, it can be a bit more difficult from here on. The tricky part is forming the tortillas. Typically, a person would also purchase a tortilla press to make round tortillas of even thickness, as is demonstrated in this recipe. I hit a snag here as I had quite the difficult time trying to find a tortilla press and after MUCH searching, I turned up empty handed. Don't fret, if you really feel that you need a tortilla press and you can't find one, you can order one online from many websites. However, plastic wrap or wax paper, a spatula, a rolling pin and/or a plate work just as well.

Corn Tortillas - A Historical Overview

Throughout my research, one important aspect of traditional Mexican culture that has become quite evident to me is the importance of corn or maíz in the national diet. In ancient cultures, corn was highly revered and was an important part of religion and daily life. Before European settlers arrived in Latin America, the indigenous peoples in Mexico formed their entire diet around corn as their staple food. The Spanish introduced wheat later on and although many people tried to convince he general population that wheat was superior to corn, these pleas fell on deaf ears. One major reason being that corn thrived in Mexico while wheat struggled and as for a second reason, the people didn't want to sacrifice corn for wheat. Even despite rumors that wheat promoted a healthier diet which we know now that this is untrue.

To make corn tortillas the "old-school way"; a woman would remove the kernels of corn from the husks and then boil them in hot water containing lime mineral. This would soften the corn to make it easier to grind; however, there are added health benefits to this method as lime mineral added much needed calcium to the tortillas. After the corn is softened, it would be ground into dough on a "metate" or a three-legged grinding stone. This would literally take hours upon hours.



Eventually, enough dough or "masa" would be made to make enough tortillas for the day. The women would then shape the dough into even thin discs and place them on a "comal" or griddle to cook. Tortillas were designed to economical in every way, they negate the need for plates and utensils and require little fire wood to cook, a rare commodity at the time.

¡Que vivan los tamales!

What a great read! This book was a great contributor to my research and helped me shape the direction of my project. Pilcher's voice is one of experience and great personal exploration in the field of Mexican food and identity in culture. He writes of his travels and of his own experiences and memories of Mexico as well as those of other people. It is the memories and personal experiences tied in with history and other research that makes his book a unique and interesting read.

This book really changed the outlook of my project so I decided to post about it here for the benefit of Mexican food enthusiasts everywhere. The book begins with a great introduction and later delves into the ancient history of Mexican food and indignous life, life after European settlers arrived, the discourse over corn vs. wheat, the role of women in developing a national identity, modern Mexican food and more.

As for where to find it, it can be ordered online through Amazon and Chapters. For those who attend UNB or STU, there is a copy at the Harriet Irving Library and for those people outside of Fredericton, you can always try your local library. If you still can't find it or maybe you just want a taste, the introduction and first two chapters are available for preview through Google books:

¡Que vivan los tamales!: Food and the Making of Mexican Identity by Jeffrey M. Pilcher

Memories of Mexico!

Here is one story sent to me by one of my professors at UNB, Ellen Rose:

I love Mexican food in general--the refried
beans, the rice, the enchiladas, and those
hard-to-find tamales. But my favourite part of
the Mexican meal is the plain, simple tortilla.
When I was very little--we're talking 4 - 5, my
mother and father and I lived in a rather seedy
section of downtown San Francisco. Once a week,
we all went to the grocery store, and as part of
this weekly expedition, we went out to dinner to
a nearby Mexican restaurant which, if I saw it
today, I would also probably call seedy. But the
food, at least in my memory, was wonderful, and
has become the touchstone for all Mexican food
that I eat now. This was also one of the few
times in the week that we ate together as a
family, sitting around a table, so it was a
special moment. At the beginning of the meal,
before the rest of the food was brought out, the
Mexican waiter would bring us a basket of warm
corn tortillas and butter. My mother would put a
little butter on my tortilla and roll it up--and
man, that tasted good. And ever since then, I've
been a sucker for Mexican food and, in
particular, the plain old corn tortilla.

Great stuff, I really enjoy these personal stories that people send me. The correlation between food and memory is strong and in my research I have found that people often describe Mexican food using personal experiences. Thanks, Ellen!

Mission Statement (Take 2)

I created this blog, "La Mexicocina" to supplement my research for a project I am doing for my Multimedia Studies program in Fredericton, NB. My project concerns Mexican food, identity and memory. I hope that through this blog I can interact with people and share their stories and memories about Mexican food and what it means to them.

I am interested in your stories and anecdotes about Mexico and how food plays an integral role in the life there. What is your favourite meal? Why is it your favourite meal? Do you have any memories about preparing, eating, serving, etc. this meal that you would like to share? These are only a few questions you can ask yourself. If you are from Mexico or have visited Mexico and you would like to share your stories, feel free to leave a comment!

I also have an e-mail address if you want to send me a story: n2wdc@unb.ca